Coming up in this guide: a day-by-day breakdown, lots of lovely photos, and some surprisingly positioned snack stops.
Just a few weeks ago, I did the Mestia to Ushguli trek.
At the time, I was living in Georgia… and I’d been wanting to do it for a while.
‘But Paul, why are you telling me about you? I don’t care about you and your life!’
Well, I’m mainly telling you this cos it means I have loads of up-to-date guidance, juicy tips, and insider information. So in this guide, I’ve brought you everything you need to know about the trek from Mestia to Ushguli.
Travelness / Paul McDougal
Expect quick stats, meandering descriptions, recommended accommodations, and insights on how (and how not) to prepare.
Bring your hiking boots and come join the party!
The trek from Mestia to Ushguli: What it is?
The Mestia to Ushguli trek is the most famous long-distance trekking route in Georgia.
Sitting in the northwestern part of the nation, it’s in a region called Svaneti—and it runs from Mestia (the only town in Svaneti) to Ushguli (the most famous village in Svaneti).
Measuring in at 57 km (35.5 miles), most hikers tackle it in 4 days.
It’s popular for loads of reasons, but mainly cos it serves up an appealing combo of perks and experiences:
It’s relatively challenging, but you don’t need to be super-fit to do it. It’s remote, but it’s easy to navigate, and it’s completely waymarked. It’s rural, but you can stay in guesthouses every night… so you don’t need a tent. And it’s adventurous, but it’s also accessible.
… so, in short, if you like hiking and nice views, you’ll love it—and it’s suitable for most abilities. And as a nice bonus, it’s super beautiful: I’ve been on loads of long and short hikes around the world, and it’s the prettiest multi-day walk I’ve ever been on.
Although this area has been inhabited for thousands of years, and although shepherds have probably hiked these trails for just as long, the hike from Mestia to Ushguli is relatively new (in terms of its popularity among travelers). Over the past 10 years or so, it’s been becoming more popular. But until then, not many people had heard of it.
Interestingly, the Svan people (that’s people from the region of Svaneti, obviously) are a little different from other Georgians. They’re very proud of their area and their heritage, they behave differently to most other Georgians, and they usually refer to themselves as ‘Svan’ rather than Georgian.
… and most interestingly, Svan people have their own language, which bears basically no relation to ‘normal’ Georgian. It has no written standard, and perhaps only around 30,000 people still speak the language today. When non-Svan Georgians hear Svan, they’ll understand almost none of it. But in case you’re curious, yes: Svans also speak standard Georgian.
Mestia to Ushguli: some quick facts and numbers
- Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
- Starts: Mestia, northwestern Georgia
- Ends: Ushguli, northwestern Georgia
- Distance: 57 km (35.5 miles)
- Elevation gain: Around 3,100 meters (10,170 feet) of overall ascent, and around 2,100 meters (6,890 feet) of overall descent
- Average time to finish: 4 days
- Fees: None
- Kid-Friendly? Yes (if your kids are fit and energetic)
- Pet-Friendly? Yes, but be cautious. More on this soon
How long does it take to do the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
The vast majority of people do the walk in four days.
If you do it in four days, you walk an average of around 14 km (8.5 miles) per day, and you get to stay in villages (with guesthouses) each night. That makes it comfortable, easy, and doable for anyone who’s moderately fit.
If you’re camping, you can go as slowly or as quickly as you like, while wild camping. You’ll find endless places to wild camp along the route, and you’re never going to get into any trouble with people or police for doing it (you’ll need to watch out for bears and wolves though).
Or, if you’re super fit and want a big challenge, you could do it in two days and two nights (by spending your first night in Adishi, and your second night in Ushguli). If you’re looking for a real physical challenge (rather than a fun relaxing holiday), that two-day trip would be a good idea.
… and because the trail is well-trodden and easy to find and navigate, it would also make for a good two-day trail-running trip.
Is the Mestia to Ushguli route difficult?
Overall, no.
It has difficult sections—but if you’re reasonably fit and you’re doing it in four days, you’ll be fine.
If you’re used to long-distance walking, you’re definitely fit enough. And even if you don’t do a massive amount of exercise, you’ll probably be okay (just take your time).
Obviously, if the only walking you’ve ever done is to your local kebab shop and back, you’ll not be able to do this hike. But if the only walking you’ve ever done is to your local kebab shop and back, you probably won’t be reading this guide anyway.
In terms of navigation, the route is super clear and easy. You’ll see lots of people walking the route, and it’s really easy to follow the path (there’s lots of waymarking, and the path is very clear).
Svaneti: a quick introduction
Like any nation, Georgia is broken up into many different regions.
One of these regions is Svaneti—and when you’re walking from Mestia to Ushguli, you’ll spend your whole hike wandering through Svaneti.
Sitting in the northwest of Georgia, it’s famous for massive mountains and massive hikes.
The Caucasus Mountain range is home to the biggest peak in Europe (that’s Mount Elbrus, in case you’re curious). This huge range runs through Russia, Georgia, Azerbaijan, and Armenia… and it also runs through Svaneti.
Apart from all the mountains, Svaneti is most famous for its tower houses. These distinctive tower houses were built for defensive reasons; some of them were attached to homes, while others were freestanding. Though the vast majority of them are now in a state of disrepair (or completely gone), there are still lots of them dotted around various parts of Svaneti, and you’ll see dozens of them on your hike.
It seems most of these towers were built between the 9th and 12th centuries—but some were built as late as the 18th century, and some were built as early as the 8th century.
Highlights of the Mestia to Ushguli hike
If I’m being honest, every ten minutes throws up a new highlight. But if I only had to pick a few highlights (like my editor told me I had to), they would be:
- Mestia: the town where you start the hike, and the biggest settlement in Svaneti. Mestia is bigger than most people expect and features restaurants, loads of guesthouses, some shops, and a couple of tourist attractions. You might want to head here the day before your hike starts, so you can explore a little. Things to do in Mestia include The Svaneti Museum, a big ski-lift, and all the famous towers (but you’ll see lots of these towers in other parts of Svaneti, so I wouldn’t bother with them).
- The highest point of the first day: around one-third into the first day—here, you’ll get the first top-quality view of the walk. You’ll see distant peaks, a little shack, and a wide valley. For the first time, you’ll fall in love with the hike… and you’ll keep falling in love with the hike as it progresses.
- The little cafe stops on day 2: between Zhabeshi and Adishi, you’ll see two small shacks serving drinks and snacks. The first lies under a cable car route—it doesn’t have many views and it’s not very scenic. The second is about 20 or 30 minutes later, and it does have great views. Stop here, relax, take some photographs.
- Adishi: the halfway point of the walk, and I reckon the prettiest village you pass through. You first see it when you ascend up to a peak overlooking the place. When you’re in Adishi, make sure you visit the hangout marked on maps as ‘Cafe Tetnuldi.’ It’s not really a cafe—instead, it’s a seasonal shack selling snacks and drinks, and playing dance music. Don’t miss it.
- The river crossing on day 3: on the morning of the third day, about 60-90 minutes after you leave Adishi, you’ll need to cross a river. If you’re lucky and there’s been no rain (and it’s early in the morning), you might be able to cross this on foot. Otherwise, you’ll need to pay one of the local people who hang around the river with their horses. This costs around 25 lari per person, and it’s a bit dangerous. But it’s also fun.
- Adishi Glacier: I don’t think this place is anything particularly special, but lots of people seem to be excited by it. It’s about one hour after the river crossing—you hit a small plateau with good views of the glacier. You’ll take photos here like everyone else does (including me, even though I just pretended it wasn’t very impressive).
- Chkhunderi Pass: the highest point of the entire walk, you’ll hit this place around 1 hour after you get the main view of the glacier. On the way up here, you get great views of Adishi’s valley. On the way down, you get great views of the next valley. Eat your lunch here—you’ll have earned it, the hard part is over, and you have great descending views to look forward to.
- Khalde village: you’ll hit Khalde village around 60-90 minutes before you reach Iprari, where you spend your third night. Here, there are a couple of places where you can stop for a drink or a snack (or even to stay overnight if you want to deviate a little from the standard itinerary). Have a drink, enjoy the small village atmosphere, enjoy knowing you only have around one hour of easy walking left.
- Ushguli: the biggest of all the tower villages in Svaneti, and the place where you finish your walk, Ushguli is allegedly the highest-placed continuously-inhabited settlement in all of Europe. It’s pretty, it’s surrounded by massive mountains, and it’s more touristy than most people expect.
- The food: one of my favorite things about traveling to rural Georgia is the food. Local people are friendly and hospitable, and they like feeding their guests. The food is always tasty (though it’s a bit salty and sometimes a bit greasy), and you always get massive portions. You’ll never be hungry, and you’ll always look forward to your meals.
Recommended itinerary for the Mestia to Ushguli hike
As I’ve already said, 90-95% of people who do the Mestia to Ushguli walk follow the exact same itinerary. And here is that exact itinerary:
Day 1: From Mestia to Zhabeshi
- Distance: 16 km (10 miles)
- Total elevation gain: 760 meters (2,450 feet)
- Time: 5-6 hours
The first day is the easiest day. You ascend out of Mestia, which is the last time you’ll see any real major civilization until you return here (after arriving in Ushguli).
Mestia is also the lowest point of the walk. Though there’s lots of descent along the route, you won’t ever be lower than you are now.
To get your day started, you begin in the very center of Mestia. Heading southeast out of the center, you cross a bridge over the Mestiachala River, then take the first left. Keep going until the paved road becomes a non-paved dirt track, and you’re officially on your way.
From here, you’ll gradually climb upwards, passing views of Mestia’s tiny airport, and some little factory or plant (or at least something that looks like a little factory or plant).
After a little while longer, you’ll hit a lovely viewpoint, as described in the highlights above. When you’ve found it, you’ll know. It’s a good spot for a break. Around 20 or 30 minutes later, you’ll hit another viewpoint. From this cliffy area, you can see lots of tiny villages spread out beneath you—you’ll want to take a million photos.
From here, you then walk through villages. Or if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, you can take the upper route, which runs through Lakhiri village. The views are probably better, but the track is probably harder to find. I took the lower route, so I can’t give you any concrete details. Either way, you won’t get lost in any dangerous way.
After all the villages, you then hit a river. The river has a car bridge. You can cross the car bridge and follow the road to Zhabeshi. Or you can follow the river on foot, before then crossing a footbridge around 30-40 minutes later. The old footbridge was destroyed by flooding; the new footbridge hasn’t been.
Overall, today is mainly made up of wide plains and some small forest sections. And there’s more civilization than most people expect (well if you consider tiny villages to be civilization). It’s a beautiful day, and it’s a lovely insight into what’s to come.
Day 2: From Zhabeshi to Adishi
- Distance: 11 km (7 miles)
- Total elevation gain: 900 meters (2,952 feet)
- Time: Around 5 hours
A shorter day, but a steeper day. You’ll definitely notice an increase in difficulty today, especially if you’re not accustomed to uphill hiking.
Travelness / Paul McDougal
You start with a steep ascent. Almost as soon as you leave your guesthouse, you’re hiking upwards. At first, it’s all pretty open. Soon, the openness makes way to forest, and you spend a couple of hours hiking through dense trees.
It’s humid, so you’ll probably want to take a few breaks.
When the forest opens up, it’s a bit jarring. The scenery goes from tight to expansive, as you’re suddenly standing close to the lines of the cable car to a ski resort.
You’re on a road, and there’s a snack bar beside you. Push on for about thirty more minutes of uphill, to another snack bar with some of the best views of the walk.
Stop here for a while—it’s just after the highest point of today’s hike.
After your snacks and drinks here, you’re in forest again, as you zig-zag downhill. You’ll need to navigate a couple of bridge-less streams, but they’re both gentle and easy.
When you reach the hill just before Adishi, sit down and appreciate the moment. Something about this view sums up the walk. You’re looking down at a tower village backed by mountains, you’re about to overnight in the region’s prettiest village, and you’re already halfway. Moments like this don’t come around very often—enjoy it.
Day 3: From Adishi to Iprari
- Distance: 19 km (11 miles)
- Total elevation gain: 860 meters (2,820 feet)
- Time: 7-8 hours
Today is the most difficult one. It’s also maybe the most beautiful one. And it’s definitely the most varied one.
Most people, when you ask their favorite day of the Mestia to Ushguli walk, will tell you it’s today. I don’t have enough of a backbone to make a choice, but today is definitely a contender.
Anyway, you start today by leaving Adishi. You follow a trail through fields, as you walk parallel to a river for around an hour or a little longer. Sometimes, you’re close to the river; sometimes you’re far from it. The meadow-like views are nice here, and you pass a lonely church.
Around 60-90 minutes after leaving Adishi, it’s time to cross the river I’ve already told you about. Here, you’ll find local people with horses. Give them 25 lari, and they’ll put you on a horse, and that horse will cross the river.
There’s a small chance you’ll be able to cross the river without the help of a horse. To do so, you’ll want to take off your shoes, roll up your trousers, and head a little downstream. Using hiking poles, check to see if it’s crossable by foot. It probably won’t be, but it’s worth checking.
Anyway, after you’ve crossed the river by whatever method you’ve chosen to cross the river by, get ready for the steepest part of the entire hike. Right after crossing the river, you’ll hit forest, and start heading uphill. After around an hour, the forest will open up and you’ll see Adishi Glacier. Have a little break here, cos the steep uphill continues.
The rest of the steepness is open, instead of forested. You get excellent mountain views; this is one of the prettiest parts of the whole trek. After around one more hour, you’ll reach Chkhunderi Pass. Sitting at 2,655 meters (8,710 feet), it’s the highest point of today’s trek, and the highest point of the entire walk.
Stop here for food, before heading downhill, and into the next valley. After around 90 more minutes of walking along a pretty river, you’ll hit Khalde village. Stop here for your final break of the day, before then following a road for around one hour. This road (sometimes dirt track, sometimes asphalt) will lead you to Iprari, where you’ll spend the night.
Day 4: From Iprari to Ushguli
- Distance: 12 km (7.5 miles)
- Total elevation gain: 670 meters (2,200 feet)
- Time: 4-5 hours
In terms of actual hiking, this is the easiest day. But it doesn’t feel as easy as day 1, cos you’re already tired of hiking by now, and the views aren’t as good.
Today, there’s a paved road heading all the way from Iprari to Ushguli. Some hikers just walk along the road for the entire day, but that’s a terrible idea. The views aren’t good, the route is boring, it’s not adventurous, and there’s absolutely no shade (so you’ll just be walking on hot hot asphalt all day).
So, instead, here’s what you should do: follow the road out of Iprari (you’ll be doing some on-road hiking today, whether you like it or not) until you reach a small stone foot bridge at Davberi village. You come off the road and onto the foot bridge. You’ll see a waymarking here, so you’ll know you’re in the right place. This section is very steep, but it soon levels out.
From here, you mainly follow a ridge, through some meadow sections and some forest sections. The views aren’t great, but it’s a pleasant day. Around 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles) before Ushguli, the trail suddenly heads downhill, and onto the main road leading to Ushguli.
From here, you simply walk along the road. It’s not the most inspiring or impressive way to reach Ushguli, but it’s the way to reach Ushguli.
Just before you get to Ushguli, you hit the smaller village of Murkmeli, which I think is much more interesting than its more-famous friend (it’s super dilapidated and rural, and it sort of feels like a film set).
Walk through Murkmeli instead of walking along the adjacent road—it’s an interesting place to wander through. And if you like, you could overnight here, and just venture into Ushguli to see Ushguli (which, in hindsight, is what I wish I’d done).
The Mestia to Ushguli hike: practical information, and some common questions
What is the best time to do the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
Your window of opportunity is pretty slim.
This area is very mountainous and very high… so for large parts of the year, much of Svaneti is covered in snow.
The only period where the Mestia to Ushguli hike is definitely possible is from the middle of June until the middle of October. That said, June can be rainy, and October might be snowy if you’re unlucky (it’ll definitely be cold at night, and you’ll definitely get shorter days).
July and August are the best months to do the Mestia to Ushguli hike, with long days, nice weather, little chance of rain, and more guesthouses. But you’ll also see lots of other hikers in those months.
Most people claim September is the best month for the Mestia to Ushguli hike. You get good weather and longer days, and there’ll be fewer tourists.
Some people try to do the hike in May. Though it might be possible, it probably won’t be—there’ll probably be rain, you’ll likely find lying snow, and some of the ground will be boggy. And if you dedicate 6 days of your vacation (2 days traveling, 4 days walking) to do a trek that isn’t possible, you’re wasting a lot of your time.
I did the Mestia to Ushguli in late June. Rain was predicted for all 4 days, but it only rained heavily for one morning. I’ve also visited Svaneti in August and July, and I’ve never seen rain in those months. So, overall, that’s the period I recommend.
How to get to Mestia?
Your best major base for reaching Mestia is Kutaisi, the third-biggest city in Georgia (and a place I used to live).
Here’s how you can reach Mestia from Kutaisi:
🚗 By car: if you hire a car, you head west out of Kutaisi, in the direction of Senaki. From Senaki, you then drive to Zugdidi, before continuing north all the way to Mestia. The whole journey will take around 5 hours. From Zugdidi onwards, it’s mainly all uphill, but the road is well-paved, and it’s never ridiculously steep. So any decent car (even an automatic) will be good enough.
🚌 By bus: one marshrutka (‘marshrutka’ basically means ‘minivan’) rides directly from Kutaisi to Mestia every day. When I last took it, the schedule was 10am departure every day. Head to the Central Bus Station, beside McDonald’s, around 3km (2 miles) west of Kutaisi’s center. Top tip: get here early if you can. Tickets sell out fast in high season—and when there are no tickets left, there are no tickets left.
🚕 By taxi: certainly not the cheapest option, but if there are no tickets left at the bus station, you can just pay some random man with a car to take you to Mestia. You’ll always find car-driving locals at the bus station who are willing to help you out. Negotiate the price in advance, but expect to pay around 300 to 400 lari per car. If you’d rather be a bit more formal, hop onto Bolt or Yandex, and book a taxi there. This will likely cost a similar price, but prices change all the time.
🛩️ By plane: a surprising solution. Though the schedule is pretty thin, even in high season (with one departure every Monday and one departure every Wednesday), it’s possible to fly from Kutaisi to Mestia. You can check the updated schedule here, cos it sometimes changes.
How to get back to Mestia from Ushguli?
On-road journeys are the only way to get from Mestia to Ushguli.
There are regular marshrutkas (minivans) running from Ushguli to Mestia—but as far as I’m aware, they don’t stick to any fixed schedule.
When I’ve been in Ushguli, they start departing from the village from around 9am, and they simply depart whenever they’re full. They stop running in the afternoon, at around 3pm or 4pm.
Usually, these marshrutkas cost 40 lari per person, and the journey takes around 90 minutes or a little longer. You’ll find the marshrutkas where the main road (I use the term ‘main road’ very loosely) crosses the river.
That said, you’ll be able to get to Mestia from Ushguli anytime between 8am and 5pm if you’re willing to pay a little more…
… because at the same river crossing where you’ll find the marshrutkas, you’ll also find local people with cars. You can ask these local people to take you to Mestia, which they’ll do right away for the right price. Exactly what that right price is will depend upon how good your bargaining skills are. But expect it to be something between 150 lari and 250 lari per car.
If you want to save money, you could also walk a couple of kilometers along the road, before then hitchhiking. This is absolutely the cheapest way to do it—but, be warned: you might only save a few lari, in exchange for lots of effort.
Where to stay on the Mestia to Ushguli Hike?
Assuming you want to stay in guesthouses (like the vast majority of people do), there are plenty of places in each of the five settlements you’ll pass through.*
*those five, in order, are Mestia, Zhabeshi, Adishi, Iprari, and Ushguli.
Some people don’t book in advance, which is something I’ve done before.
But these days, Svaneti gets pretty busy, and there’s an outside chance you’ll be left without somewhere to stay. So I recommend booking in advance, especially since this hike is becoming more and more popular each year.
Your best options per night are:
- Mestia: you’ll find LOADS of places here. I stayed at the massively-recommended Inga Jafaridze Guesthouse, which was comfortable, affordable and friendly, and the breakfast was great. It’s also basically right on the trail. Another good option is Guesthouse David Zhorzholiani.
- Zhabeshi: Zhabeshi isn’t really one village, as far as I can tell. Instead, it seems like a scattered collection of several tiny villages. Anyway, I stayed at Guesthouse Tanano/Dodo here, which offered great food (even if the main man was a bit grumpy). A good second option is Givi Kakhiani’s Guesthouse.
- Adishi: I stayed in Hotel Family Bachi, which I loved—it offers a central location, and massive portions of food.
- Iprari: here, I stayed at Guesthouse Betegi, which feels a little bit more like a rural hotel than a guesthouse (ie, they have lots of rooms and lots of guests). But the guy running the place spoke great English, and the food was good. Another good close-by option is Hotel Dauber.
- Ushguli: there are quite a lot of places to stay in Ushguli, but they often book out fast—many people hike here, but many people also visit the village without hiking. So you should book in advance. I stayed in Chazhashi Guesthouse, which is the best budget option (though it’s not very sociable and not very organized). If you want something a bit better and a bit fancier, go for Gaul Gavkhe Hotel instead.
Can I camp (or wild camp) on the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
Yes, you can camp on the Mestia to Ushguli hike.
But there aren’t many designated actual campsites along the route, so you’ll spend at least some of your time wild camping.
And as for *actual* campsites, you won’t find any decent listings on Google or Google Maps. But you will find some places as you walk—So you’ll just have to be all spontaneous, like in the old days.
If you’re wild camping, be careful about bears and wolves (you’d be super unlucky to see any, but there’s a small chance). To decrease your chances of any potential interactions, camp near civilization, and don’t leave any food outside of your tent.
If you want a compromise between civilization and saving money, here’s some good news: some guesthouses along the route will let you camp in their gardens. Though I haven’t personally done it myself, I’m confident in saying that you could find a garden to camp in every night, in each of the villages I’ve outlined. If you do that, you get slightly more safety, and you get access to food, toilets, showers, and water.
Where to eat on the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
You’ll eat most of your food in guesthouses.
For 95% of people, here’s how things work on the Mestia to Ushguli hike:
Every night, you stay in a guesthouse. That guesthouse will give you dinner on the evening you arrive, and breakfast on the morning you leave. If you ask them, they might also make you a (usually underwhelming) packed lunch (or you can take leftovers from the breakfasts, which are always massive).
The dinners and the breakfasts are tasty, huge, and usually relatively healthy.
So all you need to take with you are some snacks (calorie-dense stuff like nuts, dates, bananas and sweets are always a good idea).
The only exceptions to the eating-at-the-guesthouse norm are in Mestia and Ushguli. In both of these places, you’ll find restaurants (lots in Mestia, a small few in Ushguli). So in these places, you can eat your dinner either in your guesthouse, or in a restaurant. You’ll still eat your breakfasts in your guesthouses, cos breakfast cafes aren’t really a thing in Georgia.
Apart from in Ushguli and Mestia, you won’t find any restaurants.
What will I eat on the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
Most of your meals will be pretty similar.
You’ll usually get lots of bread, lots of soup, and lots of tomatoes and cucumbers. Another mainstay is khachapuri, which is bread stuffed with cheese (fun and tasty if you’re a tourist, tiring if you’ve been in Georgia for a while… but at least it’s convenient for carrying along on your hike).
(and the above is usually the case no matter whether you’re eating breakfast or dinner).
Other things you might find on your meals include fried potatoes (they’re always stupidly tasty), and things made with eggplants and walnuts. Breakfasts will include oatmeal, fruit, and a couple of boiled eggs. Dinners might include some meat, but you won’t get a massive amount of it (this is a rural area, and meat can be hard to source).
Where to get water on the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
You’ll find some natural springs dotted along the route—but depending on how dry or wet the weather has been, some of them might have dried up…
… so even if you see a spring marked on a map, you might not actually necessarily see that spring in real life.
You should carry a big refillable bottle (I used a 2-liter one, and always do for long hikes), and fill it every morning at your guesthouse. Then whenever you do find a spring or another place to fill up, you should fill up again.
Every day, in addition to your guesthouse, you’ll find at least 1 or 2 places to fill up.
It’s also worth noting that, although you can fill up at streams, that’s not the best idea. While non-exposed springs are definitely serving up fresh water, the exposed streams and rivers might be tainted with dead animals, or animal poop. And that water might make you sick.
Can I take my dog on the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
You absolutely can, but you need to be careful.
Good news: most guesthouses are dog-friendly, and Georgian people are pretty much always welcoming to animals. And in even better news, your dog will have fun.
But… bad news part 1: people in Svaneti can be quite aggressive. And it’s a rural area with lots of farmland. So if your dog gets close to cows or sheep or other livestock, local people can get really confrontational about it. I’ve even heard reports of local people attacking travelers’ dogs. So keep your dog under control.
Bad news part 2: rural parts of Georgia have lots of livestock. And because they have lots of livestock, they also have lots of sheepdogs. If these sheepdogs are doing their jobs properly, they can be very intimidating and aggressive (and this is coming from a man who loves dogs).
So if you see dogs protecting animals, give them a very wide berth. If they’re particularly aggressive, you might want to reroute, or just wait until they’ve gone.
Luckily, although this is common in rural Georgia, it’s not particularly common in Svaneti.
Also, remember that your dog needs to be fit enough for the hike. Yeah, take a big fit dog. Don’t take a three-legged pug. You get the idea.
Should solo women do the hike from Mestia to Ushguli?
I’m not a woman, so I’m not 100% sure.
But I’ve lived in Georgia, and I’ve visited Svaneti many times, so here’s my informed advice:
Solo women will be fine, because many other hikers tackle this trip. If you’re a solo woman and you hike during the trekking high season (that’s in July and August), you’ll make friends with lots of other walkers, and you’ll rarely *actually* be solo.
But outside of those times, you might find yourself solo. And although most Georgian people are lovely, men in Svaneti can be aggressive and abrupt, and can be not very respectful of women.
By the way: if you’re Georgian and you’re reading this and you don’t like it, don’t take it up with me. I’m just the messenger. Take it up with your fellow countrymen instead.
Can I walk from Ushguli to Mestia (instead of walking from Mestia to Ushguli)?
The vast majority of people walk from Mestia to Ushguli (not from Ushguli to Mestia).
It’s absolutely possible to walk from Ushguli to Mestia instead—the route is waymarked in both directions, and the trail is easy to find in both directions.
But I definitely wouldn’t do it.
Arriving in Ushguli is way more impressive than arriving in Mestia. And to reach Ushguli by car, you need to take a marshrutka from Mestia anyway—and there’s something underwhelming about hiking four days to only reach a place you already saw four days ago.
But here’s the biggest factor: if you walk from Ushguli to Mestia, you’ll hit the Adishi river crossing in the afternoon instead of in the morning.
When you reach the crossing in the afternoon, there’s at best a 1% chance you’ll be able to cross it on foot (because the river will be high and fast).
For the same reason, you also probably won’t find people with horses to help you cross. And if you reach the uncrossable river, you’ll be left with no choice but to spend three hours walking all the way back to Iprari.
Can I walk without the proper hiking shoes?
No. This hike is touristy, and the infrastructure is pretty good.
But it still gets muddy and boggy, and lots of stretches are slippy. Good running shoes might be good enough—but basic sneakers (or anything worse than basic sneakers) definitely won’t be.
Where should I check for weather forecasts?
In my experience, Georgian weather forecasts are pretty unreliable, no matter which websites you use.
So don’t put too much faith in whatever predictions you see.
That said, the best option is Gismeteo. It’s the most reliable resource I’ve found (though that’s not saying much), it’s pretty detailed, and it (surprisingly) lists some very-rural parts of Georgia.
Do the guesthouses have WiFi?
In Mestia, your guesthouse will probably have WiFi.
In Ushguli, there’s a good chance your guesthouse will have WiFi.
In the other places, there’s around a 50/50 chance. And if there are any power cuts (which is very possible in this part of Georgia), you won’t be getting any WiFi.
So, in short, having WiFi is possible, but don’t count on it. Download anything you need while you can, and inform your family in advance that your silence doesn’t imply your death.
Do I need to physically prepare for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
If you’re already fit, or accustomed to hiking, you don’t need to do any preparation… cos you’re already fit enough.
If those things don’t apply, you might want to do a little bit of ‘training.’ Do a couple of day hikes, with the same boots/shoes you’ll be wearing for the Mestia to Ushguli hike. If you manage them okay, you’ll be fine.
Don’t worry too much about it—your instincts are probably right.
Should I spend the night in Ushguli after I arrive?
If you have time, you should.
Obviously, if you’re on vacation and you have limited time, you might want to leave Ushguli the same day you arrive in Ushguli. That’s totally understandable.
But if you live in Georgia, or you’re on a long break, I recommend spending the night in Ushguli. Firstly, you’ve just spent four days walking, and it’s nice to relax for a bit. Secondly, it’s a nice place to hang out, with nice views, nice houses, and some restaurants.
And thirdly, you can catch a screening of Dede, a local movie filmed in the area in 2017. It’s about the people of Svaneti, and it’s a decent way to learn about the place.
It’s screened every night in Cafe Bar Enguri, in the center of the village. I didn’t watch it, cos I’m not into all that stuff; but maybe you are.
Recommended guidebooks and maps for the Mestia to Ushguli hike
You won’t find any good trekking maps for Georgia online.
But that’s alright: in truth, you don’t really need a map.
But I do recommend getting a guidebook for the country as a whole… and I’m obviously going to recommend the Lonely Planet guidebook.
This is a good one, it’s up-to-date and interesting, and it covers Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Georgia (cos if you’re gonna visit one country, you should visit all three).
The guide obviously isn’t focused on the Mestia to Ushguli hike, so don’t expect any profound depth. But because the hike is such a big reason to visit Georgia, it includes a section on it.
You might also want to take a phrasebook. Georgian bears absolutely no relation to English (or Russian or any other language), and it has its own alphabet. So if you want to interact, and if you want to read signs, get yourself this book.
Pro tips for the Mestia to Ushguli hike
Packing list for the Mestia to Ushguli Hike
Before I get going with this section, here’s some good news: assuming you’re not camping, you really won’t need as much as you think.
You just need the same stuff you would need for a day hike (but a bit more of it).
Anyway, here’s your list:
Before we go, here’s a top tip for packing for the Mestia to Ushguli hike: within reason, take as little as possible.
The more you carry, the heavier you are. And the heavier you are, the harder the walk becomes.
Every kilo makes a difference.
If you pack lightly and sensibly, you should be able to fit everything you need into a 30-liter backpack.
How much will I spend on the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
It’s a more affordable adventure than most people expect.
Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll spend:
- Accommodation: your average nightly stay (including dinner and breakfast) should cost around 50 lari per person (though this can deviate a lot, especially if you don’t book in advance). So that’s a total of 250 lari for five nights.
- Transport: let’s assume you’re traveling from Kutaisi. Your marshrutka from Kutaisi to Mestia will cost around 40 lari. Your marshrutka from Mestia to Kutaisi will cost around 40 lari. Your marshrutka from Ushguli to Mestia will cost 40 lari. In total, that’s 120 lari per person.
- The horses: crossing the outside-of-Adishi river on horseback will cost 25 lari per person (or at least it did when I was there). You can try negotiating the price, but it probably won’t work. When you need the service you’re paying for, you don’t have much leverage.
- Snacks and drinks: you might buy none, you might buy a few. Factor in an extra 50 lari, just to be safe. It’s your vacation, you don’t want to be too frugal. Enjoy yourself kid.
… so that’s a grand total of 445 lari for 4 days and 5 nights (that’s assuming you spend one night in Mestia and one night in Ushguli, which you should if you have time).
Add an extra 150 lari for being safe (and round it up a bit), and you should take 600 lari.
For reference, at the time of writing, 600 lari converts into $230 USD, £182, and 213 Euros.
Check out this Wise currency convertor for a more accurate calculation.
Importantly, you will need cash. After Mestia, you’ll find no ATMs. And even in Mestia, you might find the ATMs are out of money: so I recommend bringing your money to Mestia, instead of getting it there.
Should I get a guide for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?
No, don’t be ridiculous.
As I’ve said, the route is well marked, you’re not in the middle of nowhere, and you’ll see lots of other hikers.
You absolutely don’t need a guide (unless you’re really into learning about contextual stuff, and the history and people and culture of the area).
Of course, there are companies offering guided walks from Mestia to Ushguli. But they’re just trying to take your money—like literally all other businesses in the world are.
Mestia to Ushguli hike: connecting routes
- From Ushguli to Khalde via Lagem Pass: when you’re done in Ushguli, you can go all the way back to Khalde via a different route (or you can cancel the final day of the typical 4-day itinerary, and replace it with this day). Here’s more information.
- Ushguli to Shkhara Glacier: you can tackle this one after you reach Ushguli. It’s the most well-known and popular hike from Ushguli, cos it’s super easy but super beautiful. Head northeast out of Ushguli, through an animal-filled meadow. The round-trip is around 5 hours in total.
- Ushguli to Chvelpi: this one is a long and challenging hike taking you over Latpari Pass. I considered doing it after arriving in Ushguli, and I wish I had. It includes a massive 1,300 meters (4,260 feet) of ascent, and an even-more-massive 2,150 meters (7,050 feet) of descent. It shortens your drive home by a long way—it only takes around 3 hours to reach Kutaisi from Chvelpi by marshrutka.
- Mazeri to Mestia: some people add this day hike to the start of their Mestia to Ushguli itinerary. Another of my favorite walks in Georgia, it’s arguably even more beautiful than the Mestia to Ushguli hike. It’s definitely less busy—and Mazeri is my favorite village in Svaneti. It features 1,400 meters (4,600 feet) of ascent, and 23 km (14.2 miles) of distance. Highly recommended.
- Mestia to Chalaadi Glacier: relatively flat, and not the most exciting hike in the world (especially since there’s now a construction site here). But head north out of Mestia, get close to the foot of the glacier, and come back. Depending on how far you go, you might walk up to 23 km (14.2 miles) for your round-trip. Some people even cycle this one.
- Mestia to Koruldi Lakes: this hike isn’t as good as it used to be, cos lots of tourists now take taxis here. It’s a beautiful area though, and it takes you to some lofty mountain lakes. The round-trip walk is pretty easy, with gentle elevation. It’s around 6 hours in total.
Which other hikes can I do in Georgia?
- Juta to Roshka: possibly my favorite day hike in Georgia. This one starts in the remote northeastern village of Juta, and takes you to the even more remote village of Roshka. Not too tough but not too challenging, and it’s way less touristy than the Mestia to Ushguli hike. Spend a night in Juta, spend a night in Roshka, enjoy the solitude.
- Stepantsminda to Gergeti Trinity Church: the only part of Georgia more hiking-famous than Svaneti is Kazbegi. And the most famous hike in Kazbegi is from the town of Stepantsminda to the super-scenic Gergeti Trinity Church. Some people come up here by car, so it’s not the most isolated hike in the world. But it’s pretty and easy.
- Stepantsminda to Gergeti glacier: the second-most-popular hike in Kazbegi, this is tougher than the church hike. It’s a nice compromise, because it’s physically challenging, but logistically easy. Head west out of the town, go steadily uphill over 1,600 meters (5,250 feet), and 10km (6.2 miles). Then turn back the way you came and return to the town. It’s busy and popular, but the views are great. It’ll take you 8-10 hours in total.
- The three-day trek from Imereti to Racha: Racha is one of the most underrated mountain regions in Georgia, and Imereti is where you’ll find Kutaisi. I never found the time to do this one, but I wish I had. It’s a lesser-known adventure.
- The two-day walk from Shaori Reservoir to Chiatura: I planned this hike in detail before I unexpectedly had to leave Georgia.. I’m not 100% sure it exists, but I’d definitely be confident enough to do it. It starts at a huge reservoir, it takes you over a ridge, and it brings you to the bizarre cable-car-packed town of Chiatura. For a mix of everything, and for seeing not many other hikers, this would be great.
If you’re looking for other options close to Kutaisi, some of my favorites are the ascent up Khvamli ridge, the hike to Tshkrajvari, the wander between Gelati Monastery and Motsameta Monastery, and the walk between Sataplia Cave and Prometheus Cave (those last two are an excellent way to combine hiking with sightseeing).
For much more, here’s our guide to all the best hikes near Kutaisi.
Before You Go
Alright, that’s everything you need to know about the Mestia to Ushguli trek!
If you have time for the trek, you should absolutely do it. It’s beautiful, but it’s also very accessible. It’s a challenge, but it’s not too strenuous. And it’s touristy, but it’s adventurous.
So, in short, it ticks a load of boxes. And I honestly can’t recommend it enough.
For more outdoor adventures in Georgia, get yourself over to our guides on 11 national parks in Georgia, and the best day trips from Kutaisi.
Thanks for reading, thanks for trekking to Travelness, and thanks again for coming back in the future. Enjoy the hike!
